Moly coating

I agree with Plainsman...

I use a moly powder on the bullets, and use a liquid moly on the bore. If your going to do moly do both the bullets and the bore.

If you are just going to do moly bullets and not the bore, it will take several rounds to coat the barrel. It will also leave a bit of fowl in the barrel. for example the first shot throught a clean bore leaves a coat of moly the first few inches then it is down to the jacket and leaves fowl the rest of the the way, the second shot builds up more moly the first few inches and extends it maybe another few inches and fowls the rest again. So each shot buils up until it is completly coated.

JB paste works well for get all of the crud out.

Something that i've heard but i'm not sure if it is true or not, is that if you leave your rifle sit for long periods of time the moly acts like a moisture magnet and sucks water in, eventually rusting the barrel and the accuracy goes out the window.

As far as moly and H2O = Acid, I doubt that. But i will look into it.

Deano

Ok here is what is what with Molybdenum disulphide, or Molybenum sulphide, or Molybdenum (IV) Sulphide

Molybdenum - Mo, Atomic # 42, Atomic Weight 95.94, Melting Pt. 2375 *C

Sulphide S2

Molybdenum disulphide MoS2

Sulfuric Acid H2SO4, Molecular weight 98.0734

MoS2 + H2O can not = H2SO4

Reason:

Molybdenum is a transitional metal, the water acts as a base and the metal ligand bond is not strong enough to hold the O2. The H2o is in an Octahedral field which binds 4 sights, so 4 waters can bind but they cant hold together because the activation barrier can't be broken. It would take a lot of external energy for these two to bond and form sulfuric acid.

This Inorganic Chemistry, I hope this clears up a few thing. If there are any questions, please ask.

Deano