In cooler waters of May and June the shallows can seem almost bare.  Nothing but the occasional waterboatman or roaming bluegill disturbs the water bordering shore.  Then as summer peaks, it seems the shallows are suddenly alive and teeming with small fish, as if the table was set for a late summer picnic!  This baitfish bonanza sets the table as fish feast in preparation for the leaner times in fall and winter.

By observing what is in the shallows of your local waters and imitating the available forage, you’re one step closer to a successful late-summer fishing trip.  Whether trolling, casting or using the fly rod, baitfish imitators are go-tos during this time of plenty.

Troll on

A wide variety of crankbaits on the market in dozens of color schemes will help you nail down the pattern that fish prefer in your area.  I recall a few summers back on my home water of Lake Ashtabula, ND, the conditions were just right to support a massive crop of yearling white bass that by August had reached a length of three inches.  As a result, silver, chrome and blue Storm Thundercranks and Rapala Shad Raps were effective lures when trolling for walleye.  Few of the fish caught contained anything other than the silver forage fish in their bellies.

In the waters of Detroit Lakes, MN a similar hatch of bluegills occurred the following season.  A dominant forage fish for both the walleyes and bass of Big Detroit, bluegill patterns paid huge dividends when offered up on Rapala DT-6 model crankbaits for night fishermen trolling for walleyes and for largemouth anglers casting around structure and weedlines.  As for the crop of mature shiners, large swimbaits helped trigger bites from bucketmouths as well.

Cast of Thousands

When baitfish do stack up in the shallows or move out to open water in late summer, casting their imitators can result in some frenzied action.  Take for example those same schools of white bass from a few years ago, now grown up to around 14 inches in length.  As minnows and young-of-the-year perch move out from shore, it isn’t uncommon to see schools of white bass feeding ferociously near the surface.  Cast Rapala Countdowns and Originals, insert head jigs with silver-fleck crappie tubes, or white jigheads paired with chartreuse, clear/flash or white three-inch curlytail grubs from a distance for exciting fishing.  The same goes for lakes with healthy crappie populations targeting minnows.

You may even start to see baitfish scattering across the surface as summer progresses.  This is usually in response to predators moving through the area in search of food.  To imitate a school of fleeing baitfish, nothing tops a multi-bladed spinnerbait such as the Terminator Clear Water model.  Burn them under the surface for reaction strikes from bass, and as the heat of summer wanes, pike.

On the Fly

Many great minnow patterns have been adapted to the traditional pursuit of fish on the long rod.  As fly anglers expanded the pastime to bass, pike and other warm- and cool-water fish, the patterns presented to these predators had to change.  Some staple streamers in your box for predators should be minnow patterns in order to capitalize on the summer feeding period.

Flies like the Clouser minnow, muddler minnow, krystal bugger, Mickey Finn, black-nosed dace, EZ-perch, and Puglisi’s perch and bluegill patterns help fly anglers match the hatching baitfish in their waters.  Minnow streamers aren’t just for warm and cool water fish like bass and crappie – big brown and rainbow trout are keying in on baitfish at this time of year too.  Weighted flies will get a floating line down a couple of feet, but if you’re finding baitfish out deeper in your local lake, use an intermediate sink line, such as a Type-III, to get your offering in the strike zone faster and to keep it there.

The basics of baitfish being the primary forage at this time of year rests on one theory: fish want a feast that is easy to get to while expending the least amount of energy to get it, and hordes of baitfish that.  As a result, at this time of year, a bonanza of big fish will be yours thanks to lures in baitfish trolling crankbaits patterns set up your next bite…in our outdoors.

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Over the past ten years, trolling with lead core line has gained in popularity amongst the walleye crowd. Lead core enables anglers to put any crank bait in the tackle box in front of fish regardless of how deep. This in itself is a huge advantage but you can also accomplish the same task with snap weights, Dipsey Divers and downriggers. There are many ways an angler can put a number 5 Salmo Hornet into 25 feet of water. Anglers like lead core line however because the whole process is easy, inexpensive yet incredibly effective. For sticking crank baits on contours or break lines in deeper water, nothing beats lead core because lead core has a tendency to follow the same route the boat takes. This article will discuss the basics of trolling with lead core and will also offer a few tips for refining the trolling process even further.

Because of the weight of lead core line, anglers might not be able to use inline planer boards with lead core line. If you desire to use planer boards, used a segment of about three colors as for most planer boards, three colors is about the maximum weight before the board begins to sink or bog down. Most of the time, anglers are running lead core right out the back of the boat. Traditionally, tangled rods were an issue when attempting to run several rods out the back of the boat. Specifically for lead core, we designed a trolling rod system that does a remarkable job of spreading lines apart which just make the angler much more effective. The Jason Mitchell Elite Series Trolling Rod system features a fourteen and ten and a half foot outside rod for spreading rods to the side of the boat. The long rods are complimented with five foot and eight and a half foot inside trolling rods that run out the back. To keep the rod tips away from the boat, these trolling rods feature a complex two phase rod action where the tip can load and cushion big fish but the back bone of the rod is stiff enough to keep the tip from caving in towards the boat. The graphite gives you extreme sensitivity for watching lure action or detecting debris on the lures. If you are serious about trolling, these trolling rods will help you master your craft.

Before spooling the lead core line onto the reel, most anglers will spool on some kind of backing. I usually spool on some heavy mono for my backing. The heavy mono backing is important and serves many purposes. First, the mono gives you a stretchy backing that you will appreciate as soon as you get snagged up. Remember that the line counter doesn’t actually count the feet of line but rather how many times the spool turns. There is a big difference in diameter between a full spool and an empty spool. Keep your spools full and identical to each other. Use the same kind and amount of backing on each reel. Calibrate the reels in pairs and match up rod and reel combos that are very close. If the reels don’t match each other, you will have a harder time duplicating what is working. The best test for calibration starts on land, clip two rod and reel combos to the same fence post and zero out the line counters, now walk up and see how close they are to each other. Calibrate your reels in sets. For example, the inside short rods should be calibrated with each other, the outside rods need to be calibrated and so on. If you can get all of the reels calibrated, you will be a much more effective troller because you can duplicate exactly what is working with no second guessing.

How many colors of lead core line you spool up with depends on what you are trying to accomplish. Most of my fishing is less than thirty feet of water so I only need four colors (each color is 10 yards). If you spool with more than three colors, planer boards will sink. If you plan on incorporating boards into your trolling set up, you will want to spool up with three colors. For deeper reservoir fishing, faster speeds or strong current, you might be better off spooling with five or more colors. There is an old saying that one color will put you down ten feet but at most crank bait trolling speeds, one color runs closer to about seven feet depending on speed and line diameter.

Some anglers tie off the lead core to the backing by using a very small swivel. Other anglers use a lead core knot. There are a few options as far as diameter. I like using heavier line myself as it becomes easier to tie when rocking in the boat. Attached to the end of the lead core line is your leader. On some water, anglers are forced to use really long leaders of either mono or even fluorocarbon. Some anglers really like the stretch of mono and encourage anglers to use a mono leader which is more forgiving. I like a braided leader for a few reasons. I can tell what the bait is doing as far as being fowled or running right and the braid is tougher around snags. For the most part, walleye aren’t real particular about being line shy on the water I fish so really long leaders aren’t necessary either. The most important part of leaders is making sure they are all the same. I cannot stress this enough. Don’t put a ten-foot leader on one rod and a twenty-foot leader on another. I usually go two rod lengths and keep it simple. The lures will actually usually go deeper on shorter leaders if you zero out your line counter right at the lure. Keep everything identical between rods so that when you find something that is working to catch fish, you can match what is working with the other rods.

Once on the water, the number one mistake anglers make is letting out too much line. If the lead core line is slapping along the bottom, you have too much line out. There is a time and place for letting the crank bait bump the bottom but you don’t need to plow a ditch and usually, you will end up spending your fishing time snagged if you let out too much line. Slowing down will make your lure run deeper while speeding up will cause your lures to rise. Most of the time, an average trolling speed might be right around 2 miles per hour.

The real advantages to lead core line stem from the fact that you can put some extremely effective lures much deeper than they ever would by flat line trolling. Another advantage come from the fact that lead core will follow a contour much more effectively than most other presentations. Lead core line seems to snake through the water, mimicking the path that the boat takes. Following inside turns, points and other curves is much more efficient with lead core line. Some of our favorite small profile or shallow running lures like #4 and #5 Salmo Hornets, #5 Shad Raps, Wally Divers, Jointed Shad Raps, Salmo Stings, Husky Jerks, etc will work well for catching fish in 20 or even 40 feet of water. Deeper diving lures like Salmo Bullheads, Reef Runners, Bomber Long A’s etc can also be put into even deeper water with lead core or the lures can be staggered where you can run some lures closer to the boat by using lead core. Lead core line is a tool to get some of our favorite lures down to the fish. The whole process is simple yet extremely productive.

Lead core trolling flat out works and is one of the most deadly presentations available come mid summer when many fish push deep along break lines and over basins. This isn’t a overly complicated fishing system either and if you don’t know how much line to let out for example, do what we did before line counter reels… let out line until you bump bottom and than reel a few cranks up until the bottom contact stops and you can feel the lure vibrating clean. Trolling can be a really simple technique that is easy to grasp once out on the water.

Editors Note: The author Jason Mitchell hosts the popular outdoor program, Jason Mitchell Outdoors which airs on Fox Sports North on Sunday mornings, 9:00 am. Before television, Mitchell earned a renowned reputation on North Dakota ’s Devils Lake as a fishing guide.

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Water clarity can be such an important variable that affects our success regardless the time of year.  Walleye and sauger both can be affected by poor visibility.  On rivers in particular when heavy rains or sudden run off can dirty the water and create poor visibility, anglers have to make the adjustments if they expect to catch fish.  Whenever conditions create turbulence and suspend particles in the water where you can’t see the prop of an outboard motor, remember that the window in which fish can see your presentation is much narrower.  The fish can’t see the presentation coming near them and have little time to respond.  Typically, muddy or turbid water can create difficult fishing conditions and success often drops off until the water clears up.  With a few adjustments and the proper lures however, some walleye anglers have a knack of putting fish in the boat during some difficult conditions.

Blade Baits

Blade baits are a favorite presentation for tackling rivers when the visibility is poor.  Traditional lures include Heddon Sonars, Gay Blades, Bullet Blades and Cicadas.  While these lures are classics that have been around for decades, a new lure that cuts the current, really puts out a hard vibration and catches a lot of walleye and sauger is the Northland Tackle Live Forage Minnow Trap.  Blade baits emit such a nice hard vibration and fish seem to really key in on the vibration.  When worked properly, the vibration is so distinct that you can even tell when the treble hook is fouled up with debris.

Blade Baits work best over a clean bottom when vertically jigging them on river systems.  Contacting the bottom sporadically is often necessary.  Many anglers aggressively rip these baits but too high of a lift or snap often seems to be less productive for me and sometimes results in a lot of snagged fish.  When slipping slowly downstream, a jig stroke that is very effective for me is to snap the lure in about a half foot window, just enough to feel two to four vibrations.  This short stroke seems to keep the lure right in front of the fish where they can feel and find the lure.  Most of the strikes happen as the blade bait coasts back to the bottom.  Another key is to chase the lure with the rod tip as the lure drops.  Keep the line tight on the snap and drop.  This seems to keep the blade bait upright and out of snags more so and bite detection is much better.

A very deadly tactic that I feel helps me catch a lot more walleyes is to use a heavier blade bait.  If for example is takes a ½ ounce blade bait to slip down stream with the current, try upsizing to a once ounce lure.  The heavier lure allows you to slip slower and takes some of the arch out of the line created by the current and the heavier lure can also be slowly dragged upstream.  Typically, I will slip down stream with this presentation but when I hit a pod of fish, I can power back up over the top of the fish and hold against the current, slowly snapping the blade bait back up through the fish.  By being able to move with or against the current, I am allowed a longer window of opportunity to put fish in the boat when we find fish that are snapping.

Where legal, anglers can fish two rods and the easiest way to run two jigging rods with blade baits is to use bait casting rods and reels.  A bait casting reel with a flipping switch can be handled with one hand.  Adjust for deeper water or faster current by flipping the switch to let out line and bring in line by wrapping your fingers around the bottom of the rod handle so that you can spin the handle with your finger tips.  With left and right handed reels, you can hold a rod in each hand and maintain bottom contact.  A sensitive graphite blank that is five to six and a half feet in length with a medium fast action is perfect when spooled with Suffix Stretch Braid.

Blade baits are incredibly effective for walleye and sauger on river systems for most of the season but these baits really shine when high water or run off creates poor visibility.  While the jig stroke and cadence can be experimented with, the key is to often find that hard short stroke that pumps the lure along the bottom.  You want to send out a vibration yet keep the lure in front of the fish.  Once you become comfortable with this presentation, blade baits can be an incredible tool for helping you catch more fish.

Editors Note: Eric Olson is a touring pro on the FLW Walleye Tour.  In 2010, Eric Olson won the FLW Lake Oahe event and is considered one of the most consistent anglers on the tour and a pro at blade baits.

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We all have something we are very confident in. That confidence lure or tactic may vary from lake to lake or change over the years but we all have our go to weapon. One of the most difficult things I encounter as an angler is fishing when I have no or little confidence. I know there is more to fishing than catching fish but there is a certain gloom that shrouds the boat when you get in that situation where you no longer think you are going to catch anything. This is why so many anglers avoid new concepts or different tactics… mostly out of confidence. It is hard to stray from what has worked in the past.

On the flip side, one of the most rewarding aspects of angling at least for me is learning and mastering something new or different, especially if you did not have confidence in the tactic before. Could be as simple as catching fish on a different lure, or as complex as a different pattern that is being overlooked by other anglers. As a guide, I have to evolve as an angler and master new patterns and techniques or I get my lunch handed to me. A big advantage I do have as a guide is that I have a lot of lines in the water when I fish, get to spend a tremendous amount of time on the water and also get some things force fed to me. What I mean by being force fed is the simple fact where there are so many times when I will have a lot of confidence in a certain lure or size for example and one of my customers will start using something different… and start catching fish. Could be a much larger lure or a faster retrieve as an example, something that I wasn’t confident to try myself because I had a preconceived notion on what was supposed to work.

Over time, you see so many different things that have worked and you gain so much confidence in so many different things that you have a large amount of tools at your disposal. You don’t cling to anything specific and force yourself to try different things until you start catching fish. These lessons however often have to be relearned every season. I find myself sometimes making the same mistakes I have made in the past and find myself trying to correct my thought processes so I can capitalize on opportunities.

A lesson I continue to relearn is fishing high in the water column. My starting point is usually next to or close to the bottom. If I mark fish on the electronics that are higher, I feel good about running lures higher off the bottom but there are so many situations where the fish don’t show up on the electronics and the fish are indeed up off the bottom. In fact, a common mistake I believe many anglers make is running lures or crankbaits too tight to the bottom or too far from the boat. We often catch a lot of walleyes relating to weeds as well and as the summer progresses, the weeds grow taller so the running depths that might have worked just a week ago are no longer effective. From an efficiency standpoint, running lures where they are fouled up or dragging weeds and debris is wasted time. Pulling or casting lures high in the water column over ten feet of water might not feel right to some anglers but there are so many reasons why this particular scenario can be so effective at times. Many anglers assume that shallow running crank baits and stick baits are an early spring presentation to be used early in the season but this particular class of lures can also be incredible effective later into the summer as well as weeds reach to the surface creating a smaller and shallower window to run lures. A neat scenario where I have caught several limits of walleyes on Devils Lake this season is to cast shallow running lures over the tops of submerged cattails in eight to six feet of water. We are working the lures down a foot or two below the surface as the cattails are generally four or five feet tall. Northland Mimic Minnows and Salmo Suspending Stings have been some of the better lures worked just over the tops of the cattails. Walleyes dart out of the cattails and grab the lures. The first inclination many anglers have when they see the depth of the boat is to slow down and fish deeper but they get fouled up or snagged. I keep telling the people in my boat to reel faster and they start catching fish. That doesn’t feel right to a lot of people until they start catching fish and get confident. Once you get confident in a certain technique and analyze it, the situation makes perfect sense.

Some of the things that we think we know about walleye fishing are so engraved to our heads that it can become difficult to learn new things. There are so many times when walleyes aren’t spooked by a boat nearly as much as we are lead to believe and that is another lesson I continually relearn as the closer to the boat you can fish, the more effective you can be as less can go wrong. There are even times when it seems like the prop attracts fish. For years, I always made a point to pull up or drop the anchor down as quietly as possible believing the anchor would scare fish. I still try to lower the anchor into the water as I don’t like getting a face full of water but one thing I have started doing is to actually drag the anchor with the boat if I want to make a small move. If I want to move ten yards, I just drag the anchor with the big motor on the boat. So often, the big motor doesn’t bother the fish and the anchor dragging through the mud actually seems to stir things up and get fish moving around. When my bite slows down, I often just drag the anchor a short distance and start catching fish again. Maybe the anchor stirs up bugs in the mud or clouds the water, maybe pushing or moving inactive fish creates a short window where these fish start moving around and are alert.

Another tactic that I have had good luck with at times especially early in the season when the weather has the fish in a funk is to drive over the top of the fish right on top of shore in shallow water and try to intentionally spook or bump the fish. My philosophy is that walleyes that are not alert and cruising are difficult to catch. There is nothing harder than catching a fish just lying on the bottom. You have to hit such a limited angle at such a limited speed often repetitively that this is a tough situation. I can sometimes even see the fish spooking and coasting away from the shoreline as the boat approaches. I run the boat really shallow, sometimes in just a few feet of water and cast deep and ahead of the boat. My lure or jig is falling and running right in front of the fish as they peel out. These fish are much easier to catch as they are moving and alert. The bad part about this tactic is that you get one good pass and it takes a much longer period of time for the spot to recharge.

As anglers, we have to have confidence in order to be successful. We have to believe that something is going to work for us. That confidence however that is so necessary is also our Achilles heel when a lack of confidence prohibits us from grasping new ideas, exploring new options and learning more than what we currently know. At some point, we have to sit back and realize that we don’t have all of the answers. Ideas I currently have about fish movements and forage patterns will continue to evolve and will be much different ten years from now. As an angler, it is exciting to explore and test what we think we already know because only than do we begin to grasp some of the things that we don’t know or understand.

Editors Note: The author, Jason Mitchell earned a legendary reputation as a fishing guide on Devils Lake and now hosts the popular television show Jason Mitchell Outdoors which airs on Fox Sports Net North at 9:00 am on Sunday mornings. More information can be found at www.jasonmitchelloutdoors.com.

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Most stowable – not to mention most anticipated – landing net soon to disappear from store shelves.

Jackson, Wis. – Retailers and writers first cast eyes on it at ICAST (International Convention of Allied Sportfishing Trades) last summer in Orlando, Fla. Since then, expectancy has brewed like beer to the point where Frabill’s phone lines and server virtually jammed with inquiries about the revolutionary landing net, the most stowable device of its kind ever engineered.

Well, it’s time to spread the good word: The amazing Frabill Hiber-Net now proudly graces the fishing departments at retailers across North America. Look for the keen vertical displays with the gold matte-finished handles sprouting like roman candles. Pick one up. Give the handle a firm slide and watch the solution to “missing fish at the boat” bloom into a fully expandable and functional landing net.

Once the fish is fawned upon and released, simply retrace your steps, sliding the handle back and “poof” the Hiber-Net is ready to stow in your rod locker or dry storage, or simply set it aside and out of the way on the boat floor or front casting deck. The Hiber-Net works hard to stay out of your way until called for duty.

To fully appreciate this dynamic product you need to see it in action. Take 30-seconds and watch the video. We think you’ll be impressed, not to mention motivated to own one.

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When we go fishing, so often we spend a lot of time making sure we have the right lures, fresh line, charged boat batteries, and all those other things that are part of the actual fishing process. And, no doubt, those are important considerations. But there are some other things we should think about that, in some situations, will enhance your fishing trip. They might not help you actually hook and land more fish, but they will make your fishing more enjoyable. Here are some of those things.

First thing: Something to cut line with. Teeth are not a good substitute for a line cutter. There should be a line cutter in the front of the boat and in the back of the boat. If you’re wading or walking the shoreline, a line cutter on a lanyard around your neck is a good thing.

Store your fishing license in a water proof container, and leave it where you know where it is.
Make sure you have a spare key for the boat and the truck, and make sure you know where they are also. It should go without saying, but they should be somewhere other than where the main boat and truck key are.

A good set of rain gear will be very appreciated even when it isn’t raining. It will break the spray on a windy day, and will be nice on mornings when there is some frost or it’s a little chilly. A Cabela’s Guidewear parka doubles as a rain coat and a general purpose coat. Guidewear is the best I’ve found for outdoor outerwear: I always have it around.

You should have a small container in the boat and the truck with some band-aids, a small mirror in case you get a bug in your eye, some sunscreen, and some insect repellant. Also, keep a roll of toilet paper in a water proof container just in case.

Make sure you have a flashlight in the boat and your truck, and make sure the batteries are fresh. Last year I discovered that the Energizer folks make some really nice flashlights that are perfect for boats and trucks. They’re compact but have a very good beam, and they’re really durable. There’s one that clips to the bill of your cap, so you can use it hands-free. A person doesn’t appreciate a flashlight until they need one. There have been a couple times when a flashlight really saved the day for me.

Keep some spare batteries in the boat or truck for your minnow bucket aerator, your handheld GPS, your camera, and any other thing that runs on and out of battery power.
The things just mentioned might not actually make more fish bite, but they might enable you to spend a little more time on the water, and I guess indirectly, that will maybe make more fish bite. If that’s the case, then you should have them whenever you go fishing.

To see the new 2010 episodes of Fishing the Midwest television on-line, go to fishingthemidwest.com or visit MyOutdoorTv.com

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On many walleye fisheries across the Midwest, young of the year fish hatches play a huge role in where to fish and what to fish with. Really strong reproductive efforts of just about any fish species are taken advantage of. Heavy predation has been documented on just about every species of fish if the conditions dictate. While the significance of young of the year yellow perch, crappies, white bass, gizzard shad and even bullheads are well known. There are situations where walleyes will feed heavily on young of the year paddle fish or even other walleyes. When conditions are right for a tremendous amount of eggs to hatch and emerge into fry, walleyes usually take advantage regardless.

The sure way to know exactly what walleyes are feeding on means cutting open a few fish or at least see what fish are coughing up in the live well. Knowing and understanding what baitfish is on the menu gives an angler a much deeper understanding of the patterns. “Matching the hatch” is a term that is often thrown around but in my opinion… instead of trying to match the color of your bait to what fish are eating, a better mindset might be matching where and how you are fishing to what the fish are eating.

Anglers spend a tremendous amount of time trying to learn everything they can about walleyes because that is the fish they want to catch but many walleye anglers would be better served learning all they can about the baitfish that walleyes are feeding on. Remember that for the most part, these patterns really change drastically from year to year. For various reasons, conditions might be perfect for perch to pull off an unbelievable year class. As you can guess, walleyes will adjust their schedule accordingly. On the same lake the next year, because of different conditions… the perch reproduction might be poor but the shiner reproduction or the shad reproduction might be off the charts.

Now how does understanding what the fish are keying on each season help you catch more fish? Simple, if you have a deep understanding of why fish are in an area and can imagine what the fish are eating, it becomes easier to make better decisions when out on the water. Remember however that on most fisheries, there is more than one species of forage and that there are usually different patterns happening at the same time. What makes this puzzle even more complex is those baitfishes often occupy different niches and types of habitats on different lakes. On some lakes, perch might tend to occupy shallow chara flats and that will concentrate walleye location if there is a good number of young of the year perch present. On other lakes, perch might be pushed up tight against shorelines along submerged timber. Smelt or shad might be on an entirely different program.

After these extraordinary fish hatches take place, we often find walleyes literally packed with young fish. Crappies for example might resemble quarters packed into the stomach of a fish. Even fathead minnows that are only an inch long will be stuffed into the stomachs of fish. The stomachs of walleyes often look bloated, firm and packed full of little fish… usually small fish.

With that being said, we often find that we are extremely successful early in the summer using small lures or crankbaits for catching walleyes. Perhaps the reason that small lures that are often three inches in length or less are so effective is because walleyes key in on the small abundant fish that are so readily available. By far, one of the hottest crankbaits for us on Devils Lake in North Dakota, the Missouri River in North and South Dakota, Mille Lacs Lake in Minnesota and the Roy Lake area of South Dakota the past few years has been a small bait, either a number four or number five Salmo Hornet. Anglers are often trolling these lures with braided line down to about twelve feet but some anglers also use snap weights or lead core line to fish these effective lures down to thirty feet or more. While guiding, I don’t know how many times people commented at the lures we were using… how small the lures looked, wrongly assuming that the lures were too small to catch walleyes or wouldn’t catch big walleyes but that opinion usually changed by the end of the day. Walleyes (big walleyes included) often show a preference for small baits and early summer is one situation where really small baits can pay off big.

Traditional thinking also implies that walleyes prefer long slender baitfish and as a result, many traditional walleye lures are long, slender and about four to five inches in length. What is preferred and what is readily available however are two different things. A three week old white bass, crappie or perch has an entirely different profile and displacement. This is why I believe small lures that emit a hard vibration are so effective and why there is a current trend towards using small lures with wider profiles. Note however that small lures were traditionally much more difficult to tune and difficult to track properly through the water and as a result, some anglers might have a bad taste in their mouths about using small crankbaits. To my knowledge, Salmo and Rapala are two lure companies that hand tune lures so if you stick to those brands… you shouldn’t have an issue. When we look at the big picture as far as what fish are eating right now, it becomes obvious as to why the small, compact lures like the Hornets have been so effective and popular over the past few years.

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I was a twelve-year-old dock boy living the dream at a resort in Northern Wisconsin. By day, I’d hang out with minnows and men who tell fish stories, while earning a little walking around money for my efforts. It was there one summer that I met Hans, an unassuming Swede and regular at the resort.

Without fail, he’d motor back to the dock after sunset with walleyes to show. Oftentimes, he was one of several successful anglers returning to camp. But there were plenty of other times when Hans was the only one who walked the hallowed path to the fish cleaning house. The “skunked” guys claimed that the fish simply weren’t biting.

Well, I was biting. Hans knew something they didn’t. Whether it was a sixth sense always knowing where the active walleyes schooled, or a secret lure, I needed to find out. Luckily, the journeyman angler appreciated my inquisitiveness. Without making me beg, he produced the magical morsel – a yellow haired jig.

He called it “bear-hair”. Looked like deer-hair to me, but who was I to question the man who just turned over the Colonel’s secret recipe. Hans said the secret behind the secret was how it moved in the water. It pulsated, breathed, didn’t just bounce around like a piece of metal. And the proof was in the pudding, or more precisely, the consistency of his catches.

Thinking back, my guess is that the sagely Swede hand-tied those jigs. But not long after, a handful of similar patterns popped up on bait shop walls. There was the “Jack Crawford Jig” and the original Pinkie Jig out of the Chicago area, as well as a few other garage-job versions. Hair became pretty popular in the 60’s and 70’s, but ultimately lost the limelight to soft plastics – so-called more “technological” and “advanced” replications. (I’ll save discussions about that myth for another time…)

In my opinion, natural fibers simply move more fluidly in water than plastics. Don’t get me wrong, I fish plenty of plastics – especially for bass and panfish – but when spring walleyes are the main course, I’m going with either a hair-jig or some type of meat, like a minnow on a live bait rig, or maybe even a combination of hair and meat.

(Something I forgot to mention about Swede’s undefeatable hair jig was that it didn’t always act alone. Often, he’d thread half a crawler up the hook shank. He said the natural scent made the difference when fish were finicky. I have a hunch the walleyes liked the taste and squishy feel as well.)

Fast forward to 2010… There’s a retro movement afoot. Hair jigs are reappearing. And this time, technology is actually improving the classic lure. For instance, what were once crude shaped lead heads are now artfully sculpted to resemble actual baitfish. The head of the new Northland Buck-A-Roo Jig, for example, features realistic eyeballs, mouthparts, gills, and even fish scales.

Now throw in some color. Not just one or two shades, either, but a realistic multi-tone treatment with distinct contrasts, just like an actual baitfish. Study the head of a live minnow. You’ll never see a solo brush stroke. Even if the head is essentially one color, there’ll be shades, and definitely light to dark contrasts.

Looking past the sculpted head, these contemporary jigs also feature hair colors and combinations of colors that are not only remarkably ornate, but also mimic the hues of native baitfish. Consider the Silver Shiner pattern in Northland’s Buck-A-Roo lineup. The authentically patterned head blends into a body of color-coordinated fibers. The jig’s tail is a complex mixture of white, grey, black and silver fibers. Hold the jig at an arm’s length and the unique fibers bond into the perfect composite of a shiner minnow. Move it around in the water and it’s as if you’ve created life. I’m not joking.

There is something else I need to mention that’s specific to the Buck-A-Roo series. Each of the eight unique patterns is darker on top than the bottom. Grab that live minnow again. The belly is lighter than the back, right? Same is true of everything from shiners to suckers and chubs to crappie minnows. It’s a thing of nature.

Having such natural looks and action make hair jigs amazingly versatile, too. They’ll catch fish in 5 to 50 feet of water and are great for connecting with suspended fish, too. I’ve trolled and drifted them with success – even dangled one under a cork with a live leech and caught fish.

When push comes to shove, though, the prime periods for throwing hair jigs are spring and early summer when walleyes feed in 15-feet of water and less. True, that’s a big window of time. But the bushy jigs are simply that adaptable. Hair jigs effectively slither through emerging weeds – a favorite feeding ground for early season walleyes – as well as along established weedlines. Hair jigs, especially crawfish patterns, are nasty on walleyes and smallmouth bass over rocks. And for casting current, there’s no better presentation for capturing the water’s natural motion and converting it into true-to-life baitfish action.

That flowing baitfish action is easily mimicked in a lake, too. In fact, that pulsing, almost innocent action is at the crux of the retrieve. Rip out the page on traditional jigging from your fishing playbook. There’ll be no “jigging” here. Rather, the retrieval motion is a soft lift and drop, lift and drop, lift and drop. Snaps and spastic twitches don’t do the jig justice. That just creates a stiff and unnatural look. It’s the slow rising and falling that lets the jig pulse. Imagine a jellyfish propelling itself through saltwater, or the fluid tentacles of a squid. That’s the look.

Depending on depth, and overall fish aggressiveness, go ahead and experiment with the height of each lift. Try a foot, and then two. Sometimes, a walleye responds best to a hair jig that’s delicately dragged and occasionally paused inches above the bottom. It won’t take long to figure it out. The fish will send you a signal.

Although plastics are off the table as an additive, meat has meaning. No matter how fantastically accurate its profile, color, and motion, a live minnow can be a tremendous closing tool. To that point, if you’re uncomfortable fishing a naked jig, stick a minnow on that hook. Be selective, though, because the benefits of adding scent and taste can be nullified if you screw up the action by using too large a minnow.

I like smaller inch and a half to two inch minnows, shiners if available. Nose hooked, they’ll nestle in the center of the plume, the minnow’s tail poking out just a hint, adding even more realism. I’ve been known to trim the hair, too, shortening the overall length to make sure the minnow’s tail is fully visible. If you do decide to shorten the jig, cut the hairs at an angle. A blunt cut actually diminishes the desired pulsing action.

Despite the jig’s peaceful action, strikes are often brutal. A hair jig can bring out the worst in a walleye. With that in mind, I fish relatively heavy 8 or 10-pound test mono, Suffix Siege to be exact. There’s no waiting period on the hookset, either. Often, the hair jig is pretty much buried on the initial strike after a quick zing of the rod tip. Take that, Mr. Walleye.

Editor’s Note: Author Tom Neustrom is a professional fishing guide, educator, and recent inductee into the National Freshwater Fishing Hall of Fame. Learn more about Tom, as well as his sponsors (Frabill, Northland Fishing Tackle, Rapala, Humminbird, Minn-Kota, Lund and Mercury) and guide service (Minnesota Fishing Connections) by visiting www.mnfishingconnections.com.

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Admittedly, I’m a meat and potatoes sort of guy. I’m eyeing the porterhouse steak on the menu long before the canary food, organic “meals under 500 calories”. In fact, I’ll take the whole right side of the menu, please. This instinctive weakness for hearty meat translates to my walleye fishing as well. Nine out of ten times I’m elbowing my way to the biggest minnow, not thinking much about soft plastic alternatives.

Like Mark Courts, Scott Glorvigen (pictured) knows a thing or two about pitching jigs and soft jerkbaits for river and reservoir walleyes. This unfortunate fish crossed paths with a Northland Slurp! Jig Head and 4-inch Slurpies Smelt Minnow. Photo courtesy of www.northlandtackle.com

Give me minnows, or give me death…or perhaps something less dramatic, but along those lines.

With that said, I mean no disrespect to guys who put their trust in plastics, sometimes choosing them over live minnows, leeches, and crawlers. Professional walleye angler and educator Mark Courts is one of those guys I respect enough to cut some slack. When it comes to walleyes on plastics, he’s one of the savviest on the FLW Walleye Tour. And to give soft plastic its day in court, I questioned Courts…pun intended.

“Walleyes crush them,” began the Harris, Minn. resident and native. “When a walleye eats a plastic, it’s game over. I’m digging in there with pliers to pull the hook out of the roof of their mouths.”

A certified proponent of live bait, too, Courts knows that plastic have their time and place. And without hesitation, he named springtime fishing on rivers and reservoirs as the foremost situations for busting out the plastics. Courts explained: “Usually, rivers run darker than lakes in the spring. Because of the turbidity, you need to offer them a big target, something with major profile. Plastics fill that role.”

Any broad generalizations about soft plastics end here. Courts is particular about his shapes and sizes. As far as spring walleyes go, nothing does a better job of imitating natural forage (baitfish) than a fluke, sometimes referred to as “soft jerkbait.” Typical to soft plastics, they come in more colors and variations than jellybeans at the candy counter. I’ve seen them as long as a ruler for oceangoing stripers and as miniscule as a blue moon in a box of Lucky Charms to imitate young-of-the-year baitfish.

Relevant to walleyes, Courts’ preferred size falls somewhere in the middle. This is a direct reflection of what foodstuffs are being preyed upon. Typically, you’re dealing with some variety of shiner, shad, dace or sucker from an inch to five inches in length. To no great surprise, the marketplace bares numerous makes and models in those sizes and shapes.

So recognize the general shape and size of the baitfish and you’re half way there. The other component, which Courts said is equally as important, is finding “the right body to jig ratio for the current conditions at hand.” Essentially, you want to hitch the jig and plastic to create the most natural presentation possible.

“With too heavy a jig it’ll lock in the bottom,” said Courts. “Too light, and it’ll tumble downstream and never make contact with the bottom.” In a perfect world, Courts’ properly paired combo “tics the bottom every six inches to a foot.” Now that sounds more like the true behavior of a live, river running minnow…

In order to achieve equilibrium given a wide range of current speeds and depths, it’s only logical to tote an array of jig sizes. And Courts does. “I’ll throw jigs as light as 3/32-ounce and go all the way up to 3/8 ounce if the conditions call for it.” Again, the goal is to keep contact with the bottom without becoming part of it.

A guy who competes professionally on the bass side, too, Courts is super particular about jig styles. “It must have an extra long shank for reaching back into the plastic body,” he stated leaving little margin for error. “A wide gap is necessary as well. The more hook point exposed the better for sticking walleyes in dark and fast moving water. Small hooks are easily missed.”

Last but not least, Courts’ jigs are required to keep a solid grip on the plastic. His top performer is the Northland Slurp! Jig Head. “A double-barb, BarbWire™ collar holds plastics better than anything I’ve ever fished. They hang-on for cast after cast and walleye after walleye.” Slurp! Jig Heads also feature the long-shank and wide-gap that Courts demands.

Maintaining holy matrimony, Courts couples his jig with a soft jerkbait that was designed to wed a Slurp! Jig Head. “Can’t get a better match than the Slurpies Smelt Minnow. The profile is perfect. The material is supple yet durable. And I have eight unique colors to choose from.” Additionally, the Slurpies Smelt Minnow is available in both 3- and 4-inch sizes, yielding even more match-the-hatch flexibility.

Rigged and ready for deployment, Courts discusses specific fishing situations where the jig and jerkbait tandem is especially effective. “After the spawn, walleyes, especially big fish, settle into current seams. A number of structures form seams, too. Wingdams are a good example. Shoreline brush and rocky points and fingers also produce seams that hold walleyes.

Best of all, most seams are visible on the surface.” Courts says to watch closely for speed changes on the surface, either fast to slow, or slow to slack or even reversing – an eddy. It’s all about fishing those edges, or transitions.

Wide berthing river bends are worth a look, too. Current sweeps hurriedly along the outside bend while the shallower inside is slacker and more conducive to post-spawn feeding activities. Keep this information in your back pocket in case the typical current seams aren’t holding fish.

Once a spot’s been identified, Courts anchors or “slips” downstream across from the target. Slipping is a method of boat-control in current whereby the operator inches ever so slowly downstream while running the motor – gas or electric – upstream to manage speed. Yes, it’s effective, but it also takes skillful navigation. Anchoring is the easier choice and lets you focus more on fishing.

Anchored or slipping, Courts casts upstream of ground zero at a 45-degree angle and “walks” the jig and fluke downstream. He holds the rod at the 9- to 11 o’clock position and maintains a taut line to feel every bump of the riverbed and hopeful wallop of a walleye.

This wicked jig and plastic combo isn’t limited to current-going walleyes, either. I’ll often throw it in flooded backwater areas. Later in the summer, on natural lakes, jigs and flukes can be very productive along deep weedlines for walleyes and largemouth bass. And if you’re into smallmouth bass fishing, there might not be a better one-two punch out there.

Okay, Mr. Courts, I get it. I’ll save some space in the tackle box for jigs and plastics. But don’t try talking me into dumping the minnows. I consider them comfort food.

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Livebait is back, baby. You better believe it. Despite the buzz about plastics, the reality is, walleyes eat live bait. Period. In the end, all artificial lures lack two potent, inimitable ingredients: organic random movement and instinctive flight response. In the presence of predators, live baits like minnows exhibit a set of natural, random escape maneuvers. These moves represent the single most effective strike triggers in existence. Often, walleyes (and other species) simply will not ingest an offering until they’ve examined it for extended periods. Without all the little shakes, twitches and retreat signals performed by live bait, sometimes you simply will not get bit.

Finesse livebait rig fishing caught this lady.

Talk is talk. Yet the truth lives within the boats of master walleye men. Inside the baitwells of anglers the likes of Gary Roach and Bruce “Doc” Samson reside a perpetual, steady supply of fresh live bait. Let’s begin with Mr. Walleye himself.

Roach on Rigging

“When the going gets tough, it’s still tough to beat a Roach (live bait) Rig, even after all these years,” states the venerable Roach. “Quick-Change Walking Sinker, ant swivel, fine-wire VMC cone-cut hook, and Roach Finesse Snell still the deadliest livebait delivery system ever devised.” The real beauty of the rig, Roach says, lies in its simplicity. But it’s a deceptive simplicity, Roach adds.

“This rig didn’t happen overnight. It took years of fishing effort, tweaking and redesigning.” The result, Roach says, is a rig that simply places bait in the walleye’s face, then steps back and allows the tasty morsel to steal the show. “Keep a rig and active live bait in front of a walleye, and eventually, she’ll eat. It’s as close to a sure thing there is.”

Crawler Haulin’ Hawgs

There are times, of course – especially as water warms in summer – when extra speed, bulk and flash trigger big fish. It’s why when Roach finds walleyes on broad flats, he reaches for the bottom bouncer rods. “When walleyes get cranked up in summer, I love running a big spinner rig,” Roach continues. “Flashy Colorado blades, beefed up #6 beads and a 4-foot snell tied with 17-pound test Berkley XT and run behind a bottom bouncer – it’s a package that puts a fat juicy crawler in front of a lot of big ‘eyes.”

Developed on the Great Lakes and windswept western reservoirs, the Crawler Hauler by Northland Fishing Tackle is equally at home on shallow, dark water rivers and lakes. “Lots of times, bulking up your rig is far more effective than the usual tendency to downsize, especially for big fish, and at night,” Roach contends.

Thumper Jigging

Longtime tournament ace and electronics guru, Doc Samson, agrees. “Live bait is simply about confidence,” Samson offers. “Even in the toughest bites, live bait adds the extra dimensions of natural scent and movement. As Gary says, eventually something’s going to eat it.”

For Samson, live bait has been like money in the bank. In 2002, he walked away with a cool $300K, winning the FLW Championship with Roach Rigs and minnows. More recently, he cashed a first place check at a PWT event at Ottertail Lake, Minnesota, rigging a 1/16-ounce Northland Thumper Jig and leech below a slip-float. “I love blade jigs like the Thumper,” Samson reveals.

“Lots of fishermen think they’re for dirty water only. Actually, they shine in clear water; I think the flash of the little spinner better attracts walleyes in clear water, because there’s more light available to reflect off the blades.” Walleyes, Samson believes, detect the subtle baitfish-like flash of the blades flickering near the bottom, and swim over to eat. A vigorous leech seals the deal.

“Rig your float rig so the jig hovers just inches off bottom,” he instructs. “In troughs between waves, the jig dips and the blade just rubs bottom – looks exactly like a silvery-sided baitfish. Tipped with a leech, this is a real go-to method,” he offers, with a grin.

Keeping Your Soldiers Happy

For live bait artists like Roach and Samson, proper bait care is key – but it’s also the one step most anglers fail to execute. “My baits are like my soldiers,” says Samson. “They’re always fresh and ready for combat. I often see guys fishing bait that’s in really sorry shape. I want to tell them they might as well be fishing with an old sock.”

To assure your bait stays healthy and happy, follow a few simple steps:

Minnows – Maintain a steady cool environment in your bait container (under 60-degrees whenever possible), adding non-chlorinated ice to baitwells as water warms. Avoid adding too much ice at once, which can shock and kill baitfish. Keep water infused with a steady stream of oxygen, too. An insulated baitwell, such as a Frabill Aqua-Life Bait Station, provides a cool, aerated baitfish environment. Change water every day in cooler weather; several times on hot summer days.

Little things can affect how your live bait rig runs

Crawlers – The ‘happiest’ environment for crawlers is within an insulated cooler filled with slightly damp (not soggy) worm bedding. Bedding is cleaner and makes for robust crawlers. Frabill offers a great bait care product called the Habitat Deluxe Worm Kit. The kit includes a large insulated ‘Habitat’ cooler, smaller cooler for toting enough bait for a trip, a pack of specially-formulated Super-Gro bedding, and even a jar of crawler food. Here’s an old guide secret: just minutes before fishing, place a crawler into a small cup of cool water. The crawler will swell in size, becoming fat and frisky on the hook. Don’t over soak.

Leeches Like baitfish, leeches require cool, clean water. Most top walleye anglers keep leeches in a container like a Frabill Leech Tote, which fits nicely inside your boat’s aerated livewell. The Tote features a removable bait strainer that lets you hand-select the choicest leeches in the stash.

As long as walleyes swim, livebait will remain a prime presentation. Put a frisky minnow, leech or crawler in a walleye’s face and it’s over. They just can’t help themselves.

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