Making your own custom fishing rods can be a fun experience. Each rod normally takes about 2-3 hours to manufacture, and the finish drying time can take from a few hours to a few days depending on the type of finish, temperature and humidity. We have learned through trial and error and I hope this will save you a few errors while building your fishing rod.
Let’s start with the tools needed. This will be very basic, but essential to rod building. A lot of this stuff can be purchased at hardware stores. Some can be purchased at the big name stores, or through online rod building web sites. We recommend trying a fishing rod kit the first time around. Most kits come with all the components needed, excluding a few household items. This is the list we’ve accumulated of the essentials.

	1. Sharp, thin knife (we use an exacto knife) 2. Lighter 3.Thread (size B or C) 4. Guides (eyelets) 5. Blank (a bare rod) 6. Color saver 7. Cork handle (and reel seat if needed) 8. Winding Chuck (plastic ring, goes on top of handle) 8. Masking tape 9.”rat tail” file 10. Epoxy (5 minute drying time) 11.Tiny paintbrush 12.Finish (epoxy that goes on the thread to hold) 13. Rod tip glue 14. Rubber bands 15. Tape Measure 16. Paint Thinner 17. Magic Marker
	The next thing that will need to be done is to build, find or buy something that will hold the blank horizontally. We built our own, and added velvet in the valleys to prevent scratching.
	Also something will be needed to hold the thread with some tension on it, we did build ours, but a very heavy book or a small brick will work.
	The last item that is needed is a “dryer”. This is the device that spins the rod at a very slow pace, so that all the epoxy does not end up on one side. We did purchase ours, but an old record player spinning on it slowest setting could work.
	Ok, let’s get started. The first thing is to find the backbone of the blank. To find the backbone grab the blank and put the bottom (the thick end) on a hard surface. Then grab about two feet down from the tip and bend just a little and roll back and forth when the blank snaps, or rolls quickly you have just found the backbone. Mark that spot with tape or a marker, this is the side of the blank you will wrap your guides on.
	The next step is to apply the handle. Grab the cork and the “Rat Tail” file, and file the interior of the handle until it’s able to slide all the way down to butt of the blank. Most handles come in three pieces; this allows less time for filing.
	Next slide the reel seat down; there will be some extra space. Take the masking tape and wrap tightly around the blank this will fill in that void. File the top portion of cork so it’s slides down to the reel seat, keep the opening as small as possible, this will help hold the cork in place. Then mix the epoxy together, and apply to the blank, with the handle and reel seat off. Slide the handle back on and line up the pieces so they fit. Remove excess epoxy by wiping down with a rag and some paint thinner. Secure with rubber bands to keep the handle tight. Let set for 10-20 minutes.
	Now that the handle is on, it’s time to apply the guides. The length of the rod will determine were the guides will be located. You can measure an existing rod, or I think some kits come with a sheet telling the measurements. Mark each spot with a small piece of tape, or a magic marker like we have.
	Start with the largest guide, which will be place closest to the handle. Take the rod tip glue and the lighter, heat the bottom of the guide for 5-10 seconds and run over the top of the glue, by applying the rod tip glue it will hold the guide in place without the thread.
	Now comes the fun part. Get your thread ready and make sure it has some tension on it, and wrap around the guide 5-6 times, then start winding over those 5-6 threads to hold it in place.
	Make sure the thread is tight and lines up side by side.
	After you have wrapped the entire foot wrap a few more on the blank, with about 5 wraps to go you will need to take a separate piece of thread, make a loop and lay down where you will wrap over the top of this loop keeping the loop pointed in the direction you are wrapping.
	Hold the last wrap in place and cut the thread. Take the cut end and run through the loop.
	Now hold the cut end in one hand and pull on the opposite end of the loop.
	The thread should pull back under to hold in place.
	Trim the extra, but don’t cut what you have wrapped or it will all un-ravel. Finish by wrapping the rest of the guides like the first. Make sure they all line up. This is the hardest process and takes some practice, but be patient, it’s like blowing a short reed goose call for the first time, each time you will get better.
	After all the guides are on, then comes the tip. Place the tip on the end of the blank and mark with tape or chalk. Take the tip off and wrap a ½ inch area on the blank before the mark with thread. To apply the tip you can either use epoxy, or the rod tip glue. We like the epoxy because it’s stronger. If you ever need to pull the tip off, heat with a lighter for 5 seconds and pull it off. Apply glue/epoxy to the tip of the blank, slide guide/tip onto rod, line up with the other guides, and let dry for 10-20 minutes.
	The last two steps are to apply a coat of color preserve, and finisher to the thread on the guides. Place butt of handle into the dryer, or rig to an old record player and attach securely.
	Turn the drying device on and apply color preserve. Depending on the type it will go on white, but will dry clear. Let it dry for a few hours, but check by touching if not “tacky” your on to the last step. Keep the dryer running and apply finish according to the directions of the type of finish you choose. We have found if it’s a runny type of finish do not touch the threads, just spread the bead at the bottom of the blank as it’s turning. Two or even three coats will be needed if it’s the runny type.
	Another type you can glob on and heat with a lighter until it’s runny. This is the type we prefer since one coat usually will do it. Let dry until no longer “tacky”, do not bend for at least two days some of the finishes out there need a long time to cure.
	I hope this article helps simplify the process in building your own fishing rod. These processes we have found to work best for the two of us. There is no right or wrong way in building a fishing rod, so experiment with all of the processes. You will find a greater satisfaction in catching fish when you know you built the rod your fishing with. Have a safe and enjoyable season. Waterwolf (Taylor – on left) Browndog (Todd – on right)

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A good pair of polarized glasses can help you see things you might have missed otherwise

In cooler waters of May and June the shallows can seem almost bare. Nothing but the occasional waterboatman or roaming bluegill disturbs the water bordering shore. Then as summer peaks, it seems the shallows are suddenly alive and teeming with small fish, as if they exploded out of nowhere! This big bang of forage sets the table as fish feast in preparation for the lean times of late fall and winter.

By observing what is in the shallows of your local waters and imitating the available forage, you’re one step closer to a successful late-summer fishing trip. Whether trolling, casting or using the fly rod, baitfish imitators are go-tos during this time of plenty.

Troll on

A wide variety of crankbaits on the market in dozens of color schemes will help you nail down the pattern that fish prefer in your area. I recall a few summers back on my home water of Lake Ashtabula, ND, the conditions were just right to support a massive crop of yearling white bass that by August had reached a length of three inches. As a result, silver, chrome and blue Storm Thundercranks and Rapala Shad Raps were effective lures when trolling for walleye. Few of the fish caught contained anything other than the silver forage fish in their bellies.

In the waters of Detroit Lakes, MN a similar hatch of bluegills occurred the following season. A dominant forage fish for both the walleyes and bass of Big Detroit, bluegill patterns paid huge dividends when offered up on Rapala DT-6 model crankbaits for night fishermen trolling for walleyes and for largemouth anglers casting around structure and weedlines.

Cast of Thousands

When baitfish do stack up in the shallows or move out to open water in late summer, casting their imitators can result in some frenzied action. Take for example those same schools of white bass from a few years ago, now grown up to around 14 inches in length. As minnows and young-of-the-year perch move out from shore, it isn’t uncommon to see schools of white bass feeding ferociously near the surface. Cast Rapala Countdowns and Originals, insert head jigs with silver-fleck crappie tubes, or white jigheads paired with chartreuse, clear/flash or white three-inch curlytail grubs from a distance for exciting fishing. The same goes for lakes with healthy crappie populations targeting minnows.

You may even start to see baitfish scattering across the surface as summer progresses. This is usually in response to predators moving through the area in search of food. To imitate a school of fleeing baitfish, nothing tops a multi-bladed spinnerbait such as the Terminator Clear Water model. Burn them under the surface for reaction strikes from bass, and as the heat of summer wanes, pike.

On the Fly

Many great minnow patterns have been adapted to the traditional pursuit of fish on the long rod. As fly anglers expanded the pastime to bass, pike and other warm- and cool-water fish, the patterns presented to these predators had to change. Some staple streamers in your box for predators should be minnow patterns in order to capitalize on the summer feeding period.

Flies like the Clouser minnow, krystal bugger, Mickey Finn, black-nosed dace, EZ-perch, and Puglisi’s perch and bluegill patterns help fly anglers match the hatching baitfish in their waters. Minnow streamers aren’t just for warm and cool water fish like bass and crappie – big brown and rainbow trout are keying in on baitfish at this time of year too. Weighted flies will get a floating line down a couple of feet, but if you’re finding baitfish out deeper in your local lake, use an intermediate sink line, such as a Type-III, to get your offering in the strike zone faster and to keep it there.

The basics of baitfish being the primary forage at this time of year rests on one theory: more bang for the buck. That is, predators want as much food as they can get while expending the least amount of energy to get it, and hordes of baitfish provide an easy and calorie-filled meal for big fish to eat, resulting in net energy gained and stored for the future. As a result, at this time of year, the best bang for your buck will be lures in baitfish patterns to trigger the late summer gamefish you pursue…in our outdoors.

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Some species such as largemouth and smallmouth bass have a higher percentage of catch and release then most species

A dead-weight tug on the end of my line signaled that the largemouth bass under the dock was indeed hungry. I swept the rod back and the four-pound fish rocketed up out of the water. She battled every foot of the way to my hand.

I reached down, tweaked the hook and felt it stick in the armor of the fish’s cheek. Realizing the barb on the 3/0 Mustad Ultrapoint hook had done its job, I pulled out my pliers, crushed the barb flat and slid the hook out of the gaping mouth of the late-summer largemouth.

Catch and release is a fun and effective way of preserving the resource on any water. However, simply hooking and releasing fish is not the only facet of the practice. There are many other areas anglers should focus on for a successful experience. What follows are just a few tips to help anglers successfully practice catch and release.

1. Go barbless

A growing trend which originated in trout country is the use of barbless hooks. These hooks do little damage the mouth of a fish and make it much easier to release. If you can’t find barbless hooks, smash the barb flat with your pliers. You will find that most fish still stay hooked when properly played and they swim off with far less pressure on their jaws and mouth.

2. Wash your hands

No, you don’t need to use soap or scrub for 20 seconds, but before handling a fish or lifting it up for a photo, make sure you give your hands a quick dunk in the water. By doing so, you reduce the amount of friction that dry hands put on the slime coat of a vulnerable fish. If you don’t plan to photograph the fish, unhook it while it is in the net or the water.

3. Needlenose power

Perhaps the most effective tool in catch-and-release fishing is the needlenose pliers. A decent model runs around five dollars and can last for seasons, presuming you don’t drop it in the river. The long pliers can reach hooks that are back in the mouth and in other tough-to-reach places. Furthermore, the extra prying power is a welcome advantage when releasing fish. For smaller fish like bluegill, try a forceps or hemostat to aid in hook removal.

It's important to know how to properly release fish or there's no point in doing it at all

4. Limit your hooks

 

 

 

Lures with six or nine hooks running up and down them can pose a problem for releasing fish. Oftentimes hooks on the back of a minnowbait will land in the mouth, while the others will snag the eyes, gills and head. Not only do multiple hooks damage these vital organs, but also the removal of the trebles takes longer. That time out of the water poses a risk to the fish. Try using single hooked jigs or lures with fewer hooks when the situation allows for it; or eliminate one set of trebles, which also helps reduce snagging on bottom structure.

5. Cut ties, if necessary

When it comes to big fish like muskellunge and pike, bigger baits work best. Be prepared to part with some of your stickbait’s hooks if the moment calls for it. If a hook is buried deep in the maw of a big esox, use a hook cutter to set the beast free. Cut the metal as close to the flesh as possible. The hook fragment will be forced out of the animal through time and the fish suffers less stress at boat side.

6. Check your net

When fish can’t be lipped because of their teeth or must be landed with a net due to their size, make sure your net does little or no harm. Purchase a mesh cradle when pursuing big fish like muskies and use a rubberized net for other fish like walleyes, trout and bass. A good model is the Tangle Free Rubber Net from Frabill (www.frabill.com). The non-collapsing rubber net prevents unnecessary damage to the slime coat of a fish.

7. Pick your battles

Nothing is more exciting than a bulldogging pull of a bass or the drag-squealing run of a monster northern pike. But fighting a fish for too long can cause irreparable damage from lactic acid build up. Just as when your muscles ache the next day after a hard workout, fish suffer the same problem. But this acid build-up can kill fish. Limit the fight time to help the fish survive.

8. Know when to say when

Blood in the water is never a good sight. If a fish is gill hooked, bleeding or injured badly do not release it. There’s no sense in wasting the resource be responsible and know when a fish should not be released.

9. The thirty second rule

Take a deep breath. How long can you hold it? Thirty seconds is about the average. Now imagine you’re a fish. Along those lines, think of how long that fish can stay out of the water without oxygen. Try to limit the time a fish is exposed to the air and out of its natural environment. Have a buddy ready with a camera and keep the photo session brief.

10. See them off

When releasing a fish, be gentle, do not toss the fish back into the water. Cradle the fish in your hands and slowly move it forward in the water or hold it facing the current. This moves water over the gills and helps the fish recover. Feel for the fish attempting to swim off. Hold it near the tail until it pulls away. If you see the fish go belly up a few moments later, refer to tip number eight.

By following these points, C&R anglers can help ensure that their preferred method of fishing continues creating opportunities for others…in our outdoors.

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This is a common fishing knot around the world. It is very easy to tie.This fishing knot can be used many different ways and is one of the strongest knots known. Very common with tackle, and is also used for flying fishing when connecting the tippet. With the braided line brands of today, it’s one of the most recommended knots.

Good Fishing.

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Proper catch and release tips will ensure a better survival rate

I’ve always preferred simple tackle for fishing – bobbers, jigs, spoons and hooks – though I’m not categorically against using the latest tools and technology. Provided, of course, their use is within the constraints of the law.

I call it low impact angling. Some call it bobbers and worms. Whatever you declare, it’s more about enjoying fish and less about trophy angling, no matter the cost.

There are debates over whether GPS marking units and the latest sonar gill-seeking, laser-guided fish finders have crossed the line, but I try not to get into that. Those who think that modern-day angling is akin to … catching fish in a barrel, probably haven’t fished lately?

You can find fish – I bet we’ve all seen bluegills shading themselves under a dock – and still not catch them.

For the most part, contemporary anglers using the latest inventions have not necessarily accelerated the demise of fishing. In fact, I remember a few years ago an older angler relating to me that when monofilament line hit the market, it was thought to be the demise of fish, as they couldn’t see the line and didn’t stand a chance. I’m living proof that didn’t happen.

It's important to be quick but gentle when releasing fish

Many modern-day anglers, save for a few fish hogs, enjoy a fillet or two, but are more in tune with catching than cleaning. Having grown up in North Dakota, this transition has surprised me. Most anglers will keep a few fish for eating, and maybe save a fish-of-a-lifetime to send to the taxidermist. However, it seems catch-and-release has become more of a standard than an anomaly.

And often, those anglers who buy those GPS mapping units to pinpoint exact coordinates of hot spots, are the same folks who are the greatest practitioners of catch-and-release fishing day after day.
Conventional wisdom says that some released fish will die. That’s a fact. But when done properly, catch-and-release can enhance angling in the long term.

Think of larger, productive breeding female fish caught and released a few times over the course of their life, rather than just being caught once and fried up. Their cumulative contribution to a lake’s fish population over several spawning seasons could be significant.

While anglers are doing a good job of practicing catch-and-release on their own,

fisheries managers are also at work investigating ways that regulations involving catch-and-release can help maintain or improve fish populations.

Here’s a few tips for catch and release angling:

• Decide to release the fish as soon as you hook it.
• Generally, land the fish quickly and don’t play it to exhaustion.
• Set the hook quickly to reduce the likelihood the fish will swallow the bait.
• Bring a fish in slowly from deep water to help it adjust to changing pressure.
• Don’t put your fingers in the eyes or gills of the fish.
• Avoid removing mucous or scales.
• Get the fish back in the water as quickly as possible.
• If the hook is very deep within the fish, or it can’t be removed quickly, cut the leader close to the fish’s mouth.
• Back the hook out the opposite way it went in.
• Use needle-nose pliers, hemostats, or a hook-out to remove the hook and protect your hands.
• Place the fish in the water, gently supporting the mid-section and tail until it swims away.
• Resuscitate an exhausted fish by moving it back and forth to force water through its gills.

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Catch and Release fishing is becoming common in the ethics of many fishermen

 I  subscribe to the theory that the only sure-fire guarantee to enjoying your time outdoors is to stay legal and safe. Didn’t bag a deer? No fish in the live well? Returning safely from your outing, and yearning for the next trip outdoors, should ease your mind to some degree.

On the flip side, no limit of walleye or trophy elk will erase the bad memories of an outing marred by an accident. With summer water recreation building to the Independence Day and other celebrations and vacations, please take a moment to highlight safety.

When all is well with boating, fishing and water recreation you’ll hardly notice the safety precautions. When something goes woefully wrong, who wants to be sitting on shore shaking their head wondering “why didn’t’ I…?”

I’ve spent my share of time on the water, as a game warden and a recreational boater, and witnessed first-hand some of the tragedies that can happen when safety is compromised in the name of a little fun. Understand this: every year in the United States nearly 700 people die in water recreation accidents. Nearly three-fourths of those deaths are from drowning and 80 percent of those drowning victims were not wearing a life jacket or personal floatation device.

What that all adds up to is that well over half the people who die in boating or other water recreation accidents each year would likely still be alive if they had bee wearing a life jacket.

I’m not advocating reckless behavior as long as a PFD is worn. Wearing a PFD is similar to clicking your seat belt. It will not eliminate the possibility of drowning, but will certainly increase your odds of survival should you end up in the water in a situation where you could not otherwise get to safety.

North Dakota law requires that each vessel have a Coast Guard approved PFD on board for all occupants. Children ages 10 and younger are required to wear the PFD.

Likewise, anyone riding or operating a personal water craft, or anyone being towed by a watercraft on tubes, skis, wakeboards, etc., must be wearing a life jacket.

I can see people nodding their heads in agreement, but agreeing with the rules and regulations doesn’t solve the problem of wearing a PFD. It’s where the seat belt comparison gets a little wet, if you may.

While front seat occupants are required to wear seat belts in vehicles in North Dakota, state law does not require those over age 10 to actually wear a PFD. It’s the person’s choice, but you’d be hard pressed to find a game warden who would agree that not wearing a PFD is a safer choice than wearing it.

One example I’ve used in teaching boat and water safety courses is taking a PFD and putting it under a chair. Then I’ll time the student on how long it takes to pull out the PFD and put it on. This lesson is usually an eye-opener, especially when I emphasize that boating or water recreation accidents don’t usually allow someone to find a life jacket and put it on before you end up in the water.

Finding and then putting on a life jacket on when you’re already in the water is much more difficult, and if you’re injured or unconscious, you might never get the opportunity to look for the floatation device.
The best PFD is the one you wear, and we no longer have the excuse that they’re big, bulky, hot and uncomfortable. The 1970s’ orange life jackets have been replaced by contemporary models that fit just about anyone. When shopping for a PFD always make sure it’s carrying the Coast Guard approval stamp. This certification ensures the PFD meets stringent safety requirements, and is also required by law.

I’ll be spending as much time as possible in and on the water this summer. Wearing my PFD will not guarantee my safety, but not wearing it –that’s out of the question.

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Grilled Salmon Recipe :

• 6 Salmon Fillets
• 1 1/2 tbs. brown sugar
• 2 tsp. butter
• 2 tbs. Dijon mustard
• 1 tbs. olive oil
• 2 tsp. grated ginger
• 1 tbs. soy sauce

Melt butter and brown sugar in a small saucepan. Whisk in Dijon mustard, grated ginger, olive oil, and soy sauce.
Lay out fillets on aluminum foil and leave enough extra space to raise the foil edges into a wall. Pour sauce over salmon and place on grill (medium heat) and cook for approximately 20 minutes.
Baked Salmon Recipe :

• 1 cup brown rice
• 2-1/2 cups water
• 1 lb. salmon fillet
• 1/4 cup orange juice
• 1 tsp dried rosemary
• 1 tsp dried dill weed
• 1 tsp dried basil
• 1 tsp lemon pepper
• 1 tsp of dry mustard

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a saucepan bring 2 1/2 cups of water to a boil. Add the rice and stir. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for 20 minutes.

In large pan, add just enough water to cover the bottom of the pan. Lay the salmon filet in the pan, skin side down. Place cooked rice around the outside of the fish. Sprinkle the orange juice over the fish and rice.

In a small bowl, combine the dill weed, basil, mustard, lemon pepper, rosemary and sprinkle over the fish and rice.

Cover with aluminum foil and bake in a preheated oven for 30 to 40 minutes or until the salmon is tender and flaky.

Recipe makes four servings.

Smoked Salmon Recipe :

• 15-20 lbs salmon
• 2 cups Soy Sauce
• 1½ cups white sugar
• 1½ cups brown sugar
• 8-10 cloves fresh, minced Garlic

Filet salmon and cut in 2″ x 3″ strips that are 3/4″ thick, removing skin. Marinate salmon strips overnight in sauce. Smoke according to the directions of the smoker you are using. Another option is using a charcoal water smoker. Using charcoal briquets to smoke, use 3 or 4 small chunks of green apples and their branches on top of the briquets about every 1/2 hour during the smoking process for a good smoky flavor. The charcoal grill will take over 4 hours, otherwise length depends on smoker.

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Grilled Trout Recipe (Smoked):

• 2 c. water
• juice of 1 lemon
• 5 cloves garlic, sliced
• 4 cloves shallot, sliced
• 2 tbsps. salt
• 2 tbsps. sugar
• 2 tbsps. chopped dill
• Made for 6 (12 oz.) boneless rainbow trout

Start by mixing the brine ingredients together and pour over the trout. Marinate in the frige for 4 to 5 hours. Smoke the trout in a covered grill for 25 minutes at 250-300 degrees.
Use a tight-fitting lid for your grill to make this technique work. Start by soaking wood chips in water for several hours. Build a charcoal fire on one side of your grill. Place a shallow pan of water in the other half of the grill. When the fire is glowing, it’s ready for cooking. Than scatter wet wood chips on top of the coals. This should produce lots of smoke. Place the trout on grill directly over the pan of water. Put the lid on grill to trap the smoke inside. Within about 25 minutes the trout is ready and smoked.
Top with any type of heavy cream sauce, horseradish, or just add a little lemon juice.

Baked Trout Recipe :

• 2 trout
• 2 oz butter
• 1 tbsp chopped basil
• 1 tbsp chopped chervil
• 2 tbsp chopped parsley
• 1 clove crushed garlic
• 1 chopped shallow

Lemon Sauce

• 4 oz butter
• 1/2 lemon
• 2 tbsp lemon juice
• 2 tbsp fish stock
• lemon segments for garnish

Mix ingredients (not lemon sauce) together and spread over one side of the trout (use any left to fill cavity). Bake for rougly 20 minutes at 425 degrees F.

Lemon Sauce – In a small pan add the lemon juice, lemon juice and the fish stock – boil and serve.

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Baked Catfish Recipe

• 4 – 8 Catfish fillets (or enough to cover a flat 2 quart casserole dish)
• 1 cup of milk (or just enough to cover the catfish fillets)
• 1 stick butter
• 1 bell pepper, chopped into small strips
• 1 small oninon, chopped into small strips
• 2 cups of flour
• 2 cans of shrimp soup
• 1 can sliced mushrooms (or slice your own)
• 1 lemon – squeezed
• 1/2 cup sherry
• A couple dashes of worcestershire sauce
• salt and pepper to taste

Soak catfish fillets in milk for a couple hours.  Dip and cover each fillet in flour.  Brown the catfish in butter, then puut into the dish.  Brown the peppers and onions in butter until limp.  Combine the shrimp soup, mushrooms, lemon juice, and add seasonings to taste.  Pour the sauce over the catfish fillets and bake at 350°F for 30 minutes.

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